The French Experience

École Normale Supérieure (ENS)

Aretha Phiri went on exchange for six months at École Normale Supérieure in Paris, France in 2008, and obtained her MA in English at Rhodes in 2010.  

I agreed to go on one of Rhodes University's international exchange programmes after much persuasion from the Dean of the International Office. When I told people I was leaving to study in Paris for six months, they were thrilled, if not a little amused (my mediocre French notwithstanding), at the concept of my going to study English in France. But I was determined to make the most of my final year as a Masters student, and after much planning, organizing, and reorganizing; I finally packed my bags (and what felt like my entire life) and on 13 January headed, somewhat anxiously, for École Normale Supérieure (ENS).

My evening arrival at ENS, albeit my anticipation, was marked by acute weariness from a rather turbulent flight, and an equally exhausting traipse (luggage in tow) up and down rue Guy Lussac (the attendant at Charles de Gaulle airport had told me it was a walkable - 5 minute - distance from Luxembourg station. He obviously had not taken into account that I was 'foreign' and therefore bound to get lost, and he had not seen my luggage). 30 minutes later the only thing of interest to me was rest. I was shown to the residence for international students where I slept, deeply, till the following morning when I was given a brief induction of the university by the Director of International Relations.

École Normale Supérieure (ENS) was established in 1794 during the French Revolution and is one of France's most prestigious schools of higher education and research. It is an elite establishment catering for at least 2 200 students studying for careers in the arts and sciences. Its main campus - at rue d'Ulm - is situated in the fifth district, in the heart of the famously vibrant artistic and cultural Latin Quarter. The area boasts several prestigious universities including the Sorbonne, and is also the intellectual capital of France, if not Europe (it is known to have been frequented and lived in by the likes of Simone de Beauvoir, and other famous foreign intellectuals like Henry James and Oscar Wilde, to name but a 'literary' few). ENS itself is 'haunted' by esteemed (and intimidating) names such as Sartre, Césaire, Weil, Foucault, and Derrida who are former pupils of the establishment.

Paris universities, as well as ordinary citizens, are currently in the midst of an (academic) 'revolution' against the French - 'la gauche caviar' - government, and ENS is no exception. The number of students attending classes appears to be dwindling, but its serious intellectual atmosphere remains. It is not uncommon to find computer labs full of students diligently researching for or completing essays. Neither is it uncommon to find many of them hunched over books in the library or having passionate intellectual debates in the School corridors. ENS is highly reputable in Europe as providing the best in modern excellence in teaching and research. Apart from its own well-renowned lecturers, the School typically hosts international (some even Nobel prize-winning) lecturers and conducts numerous debates and seminars with international and national universities. And lectures are usually vibrant, and, quite unlike Rhodes I think, typically two hours long! The main (Humanities) library is an impressive building which, with its specialized footbridges (it is that large) connecting various sections, houses some 500 000 volumes and 1 600 modern periodicals - a delight to any Humanities student (ok, maybe just myself).

Consequent to its reputation, the School also has a burgeoning international community. There are two other academic and residential campuses at ENS - boulevard Jourdan (14th district) and rue Maurice Arnoux, Montrouge - which, together with local students, entertain about 100 international students a year (on different scholarly programmes) who come from neighbouring European countries, or from as far as the Middle East, Africa, North and South America and Asia. (My immediate neighbours in residence are from Sweden, England, and Columbia). My residence (the international students' are typically placed in the same building), which is situated directly above the library, is modern and the rooms comfortable and relatively spacious - spacious enough to accommodate a huge built-in work area which, when you are feeling lazy, is a constant reminder as why you are here. Its well-equipped kitchen, despite the school cafeteria downstairs, is very popular with the students (more so than the TV room) and serves as our meeting point.

Despite its international community, students at ENS are encouraged to, and more often than not, speak only French. Consequently, my French has improved somewhat, if not from the forced mono-lingual communication, then definitely from the fact that all lectures, even English, are conducted in French, and the French language classes I take for two hours once a week. The French language classes, conducted by an extremely patient and entertaining lecturer and taken by students as well as working professionals, are the highlight of my week, not merely because everyone else's French is apparently worse than mine and that this lessens my sense of complete linguistic incompetence.

When not hard at study, or eating subsidized meals at the cafeteria (a definite attraction, even for the French, when you consider how expensive food or eating out in Paris can be), it is common to find students relaxed, sipping copious amounts of coffee in the rather picturesque Ernest's quadrangle. Coffee (the students here swear the French make the best, even when it comes from a machine) and intellectualism seem inseparable here and you'd be hard-pressed to find a decent cup of tea on campus. Although ENS does not have many of the grand and sprawling grounds and gardens that Rhodes boasts (it is a city university after all and such luxuries are limited), it does have its charms. Most of the museums and main architectural and historical attractions - Luxembourg Museum and gardens, the Louvre, the Museum D'Orsay, the Notre Dame, the Pantheon, for example - are within walking distance of the School, and when not, the Metro or the RER (fast underground rail) or local bus service is relatively affordable and extremely efficient. When pocket permits, the numerous (and there are many) cafés and eating places make for an interesting taste of French (and other) cuisine. Rue Mouffetard, for example, which is a short stroll from ENS, is a street notorious - and consequently rather busy - for its seemingly never-ending (international) food outlets. Here, it is not uncommon to see people lining up to taste a savoury Greek crepe or a Turkish sweet meat. Eating is largely cultural in France, and anyone, like me, who does not have a particularly big appreciation for food, is sure to leave with an improved, if not distinguished, palette. From oven-fresh croissants, melt-in-your-mouth chocolate bread, to a choice of at least 200 types of cheese and numerous varieties of freshly-baked bread, eating in France is guaranteed to be an experience on its own. (I must confess, however, an inability to partake in the ritual worship of the famous French baguette - too crispy for my liking).

For cheaper social activities, many of the departments at the ENS host exciting social events, debates or seminars which are accessible to all students. And apart from the much sought after 'basement' parties, there are also more relaxed film nights, some of which feature premieres of new French art films attended by the directors or producers who are open to questions and discussion. There are many student clubs and societies run by the Social Activities Organising Committee (COF), and there is also plenty to do by way of sports and physical exercise but I am not in a position to elaborate. I am making a conscious effort to relax and indulge in all things French while here and walking seems to be the preferable, if not classier, form of exercise here.

There is a wealth of things to do at ENS. And with only three month's left, time seems to have flown by. I am taking advantage of what this premier educational institution has to offer by way of competitive research facilities and a convenient locale which affords easy and affordable access to all things 'Parisian.' Add to that some travel to the French countryside where I hope to prepare my own bottle of wine (I quite like the idea of sinking my feet into a tub of grapes), I should be much occupied. But if, God forbid, I should run out of things to do while here, who knows, I may just join one of numerous protest marches currently taking place in the city.